Review: Perry Street

When the name Jean George is uttered, the palate is automatically aroused while an intrigue and excitement sets in. This was the initial spark when we entered Perry Street-Jean George's 'neighborhood joint' in downtown Manhattan.  The low-pitched hostes showed us to our lunch table-an almost comunal attachment to the clients adjacent, with paper placemats yet comfy chairs. The floating and serene waitress took our orders and we were greeted with buttery croissants to start. As we waited for our first course to arrive, we examined the pristine atmosphere, chatty clientele, and well dressed staff.

The arctic char sashimi was presented on a white square, simply garnished with lemon zest, crispy skin, a few paper-thin slices of chilis, and olive oil. The tender slices of fish were garnished with large salt flakes (Maldon perhaps) and had a pleasant texture.

Crispy calamari were our other starter...extremely tender, however, a bit difficult to pierce with a fork, as the batter had hardened significantly-resulting in fried dough pieces all around. The whipped ponzu-sesame sauce was savory and a perfect dipping accompaniment for the croissant as well.

Service was quick and attentive and the semi-communal seating added to our amusement. We couldn't help overhearing a few gentlemen comment on their discontent with portion size, as they ordered more plates after finishing their entrees.

When our main dishes arrived, we understood their concern. Although cooked to perfection and delicious, the two humble slices of grilled hangar were questionable size for an entree. Unfortunately the 'crispy' potatoes were appropriately called due to still being crisply undercooked...not so much to their fried composition.

The slow cooked salmon was the biggest surprise of the lunch. Having experienced this dish at the James Beard House, as well as preparing it in the past, I was looking forward to the melt-in-your-mouth-feel of the delicate preparation. I was presented, however, with a simple baked salmon, overcooked at the edges. The accompanying asparagus and bok choy were fresh, crispy, and delicious, and the herbal chili sauce was flavorful and had a smooth consistency, however lacked the chili mentioned in its title.

Dessert was once more a hit and miss. The warm chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream seemed as if originating from the frozen isle of Trader Joes (which I love...however, I was expecting more). The cassis mousse with a small carrot cake layer and sorbet was a delicious mix of sweet and tangy flavors and greatly succeeded it's partner. Although beautifully presented, the food did not WOW our excited palates.

Were my expectations too high? Is Perry Street a faulty representation to the JGV world? I hold my breath and anticipate a better experience in one of his alternate venues.

Review: Blue Hill at Stone Barns

Ultimate indulgence, for some, is found in Vegas, Disney World, or various unmentionable arenas. I found mine at Blue Hill, Stone Barnes. The working farm boasts two locations of its infamous, no-menu dining adventure: one in Manhattan and one just north of the city, in Pocantico Hills, NY.  Upon arrival, two friendly valets whisk your carriage away  (should you happen to arrive via one) and direct you to the fairytale-like castle to meet the host. As you walk through the tall, brick passage you can't help but note the vast farmland surrounding the fortress. With various growing greens, sheep herds, and pastures (where your soon-to-be-dinner grazes), an unusual calm takes over. Am I really just 30 miles away from the city? The overly friendly host, ever so peacefully and extremely breathlessly inquires your name and the time of the reservation. "We're so glad to have you here! Would you like to be seated early? This is no problem at all! I'll take you to your table right away!" And just like that, we were swept away to a cozy booth, set just for us (a calmly, smiley twilight zone-ish atmosphere, but we went with it).

Among the hundreds of people dancing at our feet and panting with anticipation to serve us, was our beaming waitress. She approached us with two menus and began to illustrate the process of the experience to come. Blue Hill has no set menu. Each day boasts a new harvest and intricate creations based on availability of produce. The only choice you must make is the five or eight course menus-hey, if you're going to party, might as well do it right. This was a no brainer for us...bring it on! Six of the courses were to be savory and two sweet, however, this does not account for the multitude of small bites prior to and following the feast. 

As the waiters glided across the dining room floor, whisking away the empty plates as soon as the last bite disappeared, providing new silverware with each course, folding napkins, pouring water, tidying the table, and making sure that every detail was perfect, the smile did not leave our faces. Pure indulgence and pampering!

Aside from the impeccable, unpretentious, kind, and attentive service, the food was indescribable (which I shall attempt to describe). With each foretaste, course, and sauce your taste buds squeal with excitement and surprise. 

The perfect start to an amazing evening was the fresh garden vegetable display. Impeccably aromatic veggies, skewered onto a wooden vessel, tasted as if picked just minutes before. Baby zucchini with flowers, carrots, broccolini, tomatoes, and cucumbers. Simply tossed in a bit of salt and very mild olive oil-which enhanced the richness of the flavors. Next, fresh baby squash, wrapped with house-made prosciutto and sesame seeds. Each component distinctly separate on the tongue as the combination tied the flavors together. Fresh and extremely tender. Flash fried green beans from the garden were crunchy and perfectly seasoned. House-made charcuterie with a baked crisp bread followed, boasting a gently salty flavor.


As the starters flowed, the anticipation grew with every bite. Mini burgers (with sesame seeds), corn dogs (skewered baby corn, flash fried and seasoned to perfection), peppered melon (three varieties), bone marrow with American caviar (in an incredibly authentic presentation-in the actual bone!)

Each new silverware placing provided clues to what was to follow. An oddly shaped spoon-perhaps we'll be scooping up a sauce? A fillet knife-what type of meat will we be carving? In addition to the above clues, we were presented with various other leads. A freshly polished silver platter supported two gritty, long-stemmed greens, which seemed to be picked that morning. Our waitress explained the origin of Celtuce, as she sliced open the dirty stem and allowed us to take a whiff of the nutty, fresh aroma. She [thankfully] explained that we were not to eat the grimy Chinese lettuce in front of us, and that this was a simple demonstration of what was to follow. As we parted with the sample presentation, our prepared Celtuce made its appearance. Lightly grilled, with equidistant grill marks so perfect, they appeared drawn-on. The green was accompanied by a pine nut sauce and was as crisp and fresh as its demo (minus the dirt).

Our next tip emerged as a platter of coals. We were informed that the farm participates in a program where any organic matter is used as the heating source. As we zeroed in, bones, sticks, and other organic variables were dispersed among the familiar charcoal. The following course was submerged in the coals, overnight, for 24 hours, resulting in an incredibly moist, sweet, and tender onion! The presentation, as immaculate as others, was on two wooden planks, served with a slew of sauces: jicama cream, poached blueberries, olive tapenade, and avocado sauce. Although the star of this course slightly resembled a bit of the female anatomy, it appropriately melted in your mouth with each bite.

As our stomachs began to expand, some freshly baked, piping hot bread made its way over. Presented with a mild organic butter and a trio of salts (tomato, shiitake, and red pepper). Each subsequent course attempted to outdo its predecessor. A gentle white fish, quickly seared, sat atop a slightly sweet tomato coulis. The morning's poached egg with a white bean-vegetable broth, sported pickled yolk shavings atop. The pig parts included stomach, blood sausage, and snout, among others and were supported by a crisp grilled eggplant square.

As the final savory course arrived, we were in shear bliss. The braised beef rib, presented with an eggplant tapenade, was moist and delicious. While we attempted to remove every ounce of meat from the bone with our silverware, our waitress was in the process of reading our minds. She appeared with two rectangular plates, each holding one napkin, a small bowl with chilled water, a lemon wedge, and an aromatic herb. As she sat the new tools in front of our stuffed faces, she calmly offered, "Please feel free to use your hands". We were in shock. How can this place get any better? They require you wear jacket and tie, yet you can eat with your hands!

We paused for a moment to reflect on the fantastic feast as our dessert courses made way. Poached cherries in their own broth were served with house-made mint sorbet. A corn bread cake along with fresh sugared berries and lemon ice cream. And to complete the meal a board with a multitude of sweets: sugared fresh red currants, chocolate covered almonds, fresh picked strawberries, and real honey comb!

Three and a half hours later, comfortably satiated, baring huge grins, we thanked our gracious hosts and parted with this fairytale farm. On our way out we waived good-bye to a flock of sheep, being herded by an overly zealous dog and were still in an excited daze. Were we drugged? Is this place real? There is no doubt that the Blue Hill adventure never ends and we'll be back again and again (funds permitting) for new perceptions of ecstasy.
630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills, NY 10591

Review: Chimu Peruvian Steak House

This Peruvian steak house is conveniently located in Williamsburg/Greenpoint Brooklyn. Having passed its black awning and colorful windows numerous times, we decided to give it a go.

Upon entering the cave like nook, we were instantly greeted by two eager employees, questioning our seating preference. Considering the pleasantly warm environment we'd just escaped (approximately 101F), we chose to stay indoors.

As our eyes adjusted from the blaring sun, we were able to begin appreciating the cozy den. With gently flowing water gardens, dimly lit candles, and low hanging mini lights above each table, the romanticism is undeniable. Small, neatly set tables, a humble bar, and our equally sized waitress were no indication of the portions we were about to ingest.

Our dining experience commenced with a complimentary bowl of popped corn kernels. These tiny, crunchy, addictive, poppers were slightly salted and accompanied by a small bowl of spicy cream sauce. We weren't sure as to the purpose of this accessory, but gladly topped our kernels with the creamy concoction. Later, we'd learn to dab a bit of it atop our entrees as well.

We chose to start with fried sweet plantains-a favorite-and Chimu nailed it. Tender and piping hot, the generous portion arrived in an ordinary, round white plate. No garnish. No fancy layout. Simple and delicious. The moist, luscious bites disappeared within minutes. With the extremely attentive and speedy service, our main dishes were not too far behind. Picande de Mariscos, a diced potato stew with seafood, was cradled in a massive square bowl. Is there a bottom to this thing (I thought to myself while whiffing the flavorful aroma)? Aside from potatoes, the gigantic portion carried shrimp, baby octopus, calamari, soft shell crab, clams, mussels, Peruvian cheese, and veggies. Unlike any 'mixed seafood' entree I've seen. This dish was loaded with seafood! The flavorful broth, with its hints of red peppers, tomatoes, and coconut, was extremely flavorful and made me crave dipping bread (for soaking up the goodies).

My companion's entree of choice was Milanesa de Carne, Peruvian style basil spaghetti with flank steak. The green pasta came out, supporting an extremely generous portion of steak (overall, four friends could have enjoyed splitting our entire meal). With refreshing hints of fresh basil, the pasta lacked flavor (a bit of salt would have helped), however the steak's profile was the opposite. Draped in a sweet and buttery red wine sauce, the endless piece of meat was a success.

We'll be back Chimu, we'll be back. Especially for the famous Papa Rellena (mashed potato stuffed with beef, black olives, and egg), as well as a multitude of other authentic favorites we couldnt cram into our stomachs this time.
482 Union Avenue, Brooklyn, NY  11211

The James Beard House-An Incredible Culinary Adventure

An incredible opportunity landed me at the James Beard House, for a five course palate roller coaster. Chef Jason Franey, of Canlis Restaurant in Seattle Washington, honored the dining room with an array of incredibly fresh, flavorful, and innovative cuisine, while the servers kept the glasses full with amazing course wine pairings.

The James Beard house recognizes outstanding chefs for their achievements in the culinary world and invites them to NY to host an upscale dining evening unlike any other.

As we walked through the open kitchen, where the chef and his crew were neck deep in their creations, a sense of excitement and celebration set in. The tree lined outdoor patio welcomed us, on the mild and sunny evening, with a glass of Grand Cru champagne as the passed hors d'oeuvres made their rounds. A crisp pearl onion housed a shredded, sweet, tender oxtail. The delicate foie gras was topped with an apple gelee and sat atop a baked crust (cleverly tagged Foie Gras Apple Pie). The oysters, brought in fresh from Washington State, slid into our mouths with grace, as the tiny morsels of salty caviar exploded with a gentle pop.

Once all the guests had a short introduction to the evening's forthcoming bounty, we were called to take our seats in the dining room. The beautifully set tables were dimly lit with enough silverware and glasses to run 5 restaurants. The women of each table were served first (a sign of tradition and extra bonus for me), as the first course emerged: ceviched scallop and geoduck. Although the geoduck was rested atop the scallop, it was difficult to differentiate the flavor of the two. The scallop, extremely fresh, with almost a pudding consistency, overpowered any chance the geoduck may have had. The shellfish was accompanied by a savory tarragon sauce, served with a light riesling; a perfect partner for the start of the meal.

The micro-greens with asparagus, nasturtium flower, and fava beans followed, with an aromatic Chaleur Estate Blanc (dry and nutty flavored white from the Columbia Valley vineyard). The greens, simple and elegant, sat atop a bibb lettuce vinaigrette and offered various fresh flavors, all of which were equally distinguishable on the tongue.

As the wine flowed, the dining room roared with laughter and exuded a vibe of ultimate indulgence and relaxation. After discussing each bite, we eagerly awaited the next course: Pacific king salmon.

A flavorful and perfectly seasoned portion of fish resembled the consistency and mouth-feel of sushi-however, fully cooked! It was one of the best cuts of salmon I've experienced-cooked at a low 145F until the achieved perfection. Topped with pea shoots and accompanied by the best Pinot Noir I've tasted (2007 Soter North Valley, from Willamette Valley OR). Can you tell this was a hit?

The innovation of flavor and presentation continued with bone marrow and beef tenderloin wrapped in stinging nettles (a flowering plant which, when touched, resembles the feel of stinging needles and irritates the skin for a few days; when cooked, it has a spinach flavor, rich with vitamins). The grass fed, medium-rare beef cylinders were extremely flavorful and lightly seasoned. The bone marrow was actually no bone at all! A new potato, shaped and baked to resemble the bone, was stuffed with marrow inside-an fanciful presentation. The accompanying Syrah had notes of blackberry and strong tanins, perfect for the cut of meat.

How does such an extravagant, natural, fresh, and mouthwatering evening conclude? A chocolate mille-feuille (bananas and caramel) of course! Transparent chocolate-almond disks separated sweet caramel, nut layered mini cakes, with a banana ice cream and chewy macaroon. The mild 20 year Tawny Port (Oporto PGL), was not overly sweet and concluded the evening with much grace, whether the guests still had any left or not.

The consistent pouring of the night, the abundance of flavors, and the shear indulgence left us giddy. As the chef and his team made their appearance, grand applause filled the room. Daniel Humm (executive chef at Eleven Madison Park and Chef Franey's mentor), had an extremely proud smile from ear to ear, as he embraced Chef Franey and congratulated him on this achievement. A heavenly culinary evening with great company and flavorful twists and turns in every bite!

Review: Lomzynianka

Lomzynianka (try saying it three times in a row) has made Greenpoint Brooklyn its cozy home. With a typical gaudy Polish decor (fake animal heads, bright ribbons, plastic flowers, and the like), the 10-12 table dining room provides a surprisingly comforting and welcoming atmosphere.

Typically, during regular dinner hours, this place is spilling over with guests, especially due to the early closing hour of 9pm. This time, however, upon entering for a very late Tuesday lunch (3pm), we were faced with only two occupied tables and a fairly relaxed waiter...so relaxed that we helped ourselves to our seating of choice and waited a few moments for him to arrive.

For starters, my dining companion ordered a marinated red cabbage salad, heavily dressed in olive oil, with an appropriate balance of sour vs. sweet. My choice was the shredded red beets, which, on their own were a bit overly sweet, yet when consumed along side the rest of the meal provided a refreshing accompaniment.

As we waited for our main meals to arrive, we couldn't help but fixate on the various NY Times and Yelp reviews, interlaced with cheesy random paintings and religious iconography engulfing the room (to include a photo of the late Polish Pope). This time of day must have been 'family meal' for the staff, as the various cooks (resembling sweet grandmothers) strolled out of the kitchen with bowls of borscht and hearty bread, to get them through the day.

As our main meals emerged, we were faced with a great challenge...attempt to finish the enormous plates or save room for dessert? My friend's tongues in horseradish with mashed potatoes weren't the Miss America of plating, however it's what's on the inside that counts! Tender slices of freshly boiled tongue (most Americans are not very open to this dish, however, you have to try it to believe) were cradling the creamy horseradish sauce, which could have used a bit more kick. Creamy mashed potatoes, in combination with the sauce, were a great side.

My choice was the all-inclusive Polish platter. The extra large plate supported a mount of food! Three pierogies (potato, chicken, and mushroom/cabbage) were not overly fried and seemed to be pan seared, providing for a light texture and flavorful filling. The kielbasa, sweet and salty was grilled to perfection. Stuffed cabbage was extremely tender, yet the meat/rice filling could have used a bit more seasoning. The bigos (sauerkraut with chunks of beef) was incredibly flavored and came with tender, tiny, less-than-bite-size pieces of beef. While the kasha side-an Eastern European staple-was typically done. We feasted only for a short while, before coming to an answer to our initial dilemma of dessert vs. no dessert...I'm sure you've already guessed who won.

A crisp blinchik (crepe) filled with tender farmer cheese, sporting a side of sour cream was presented for dessert. Typically, the filling for this dish is a bit sweeter than Lomzynianka's, satisfying your after-dinner sweet tooth. Although this was probably the better choice, when choosing among various canned fillings of other blinchiki offerings (blueberry, cherry, or strawberry).

If you're in search of a great Polish home-cooked meal, head here...but don't forget your spice rack...you might be on your own in seasoning some of the dishes!
Lomzynianka 646 Manhattan Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11222

Review: Tutt Cafe

Brooklyn Heights is one of many charming neighborhoods which is pleasant to stroll through on a lightly cool March evening. With its historic, high-sealing-brick row homes, sporadically scattered bars, and quaint cafes, it's a calmly romantic excursion.

Tutt Cafe is nestled on a quiet street between the gorgeous, extravagantly mortgaged apartments. As we walk in we're a bit hesitant due to the initial, Chinese take-out atmosphere (aka non-atmosphere). With a flashy green awning, empty dining room with few tables (half of which were nude, while the others sported a double layer of cloth), random Christmas lights throughout, a soda fridge, and explicitly cheesy menu item photos, our initial reaction was plan B...which, due to its non-existent nature, left us with the opportunity to sit wherever we pleased.

The pleasant waiter/phone attendant/cashier/expediter/host rushed to our table with two menus and asked us if we might be interested in...

Review: Shachis Arepas

On yet another blistery evening, we headed out on a new culinary adventure to Shachis Arepas. This cozy, 12 table Latin arepa-ria is located in South Williamsburg, on a somewhat deserted street right off the BQE.

As we scurried inside, bearing a multitude of layers in an unsuccessful attempt to shelter the ever-escaping body heat in the 19F weather, a friendly older gentleman signaled us to choose our seats. While we regained our wits and the feeling in our toes, he gracefully appeared with our menus and an unexpected treat: fried plantain chips accompanied by a tangy chimichurri sauce. The crispy, warm crunch of the sweet chips was a great contrast to the flavorful parsley-filled dipping sauce. We energetically offered our thanks and delighted in the warm cozy atmosphere of our welcoming host. As the tracks in the speakers changed (from Christmas music to Led Zeplin to Aretha Franklin to abstract jazz), we observed the fun yellows, bright blues, and beaming oranges of the wall paint. Although this was dinner and the mood lighting was in full effect, a sense of a bright, homey ambiance filled the air.

As we settled on our menu choices, the attentive host kept our water glasses filled and knew precisely when to return for our orders. We started with a beef empanada and sweet plantains. The crispy empanada (served piping hot) filled with juicy, shredded beef, had a crunchy, fried encasing and an ever-so-creamy inside; simply escorted by a delicious hot sauce (which was abundantly used throughout the rest of the meal).
The perfectly pan fried sweet plantains were not overly sugary and had a great mouth feel while gently gliding through the taste buds.

As for the mains, shredded chicken arepa with cheese and beer braised pork with black beans, sweet plantains, and white rice, were out before we even had a chance to finish the plantains (making for great harmony of sweet and savory flavors when consumed in unison).

The crispy, thick, yet fluffy corn arepa enclosed a mount of shredded dark meat chicken and was topped with Tropicana cheese (which prior to this excursion I believed to solely be a reference for a warm getaway or OJ). The juices of the bird flowed into the warm arepa, making for an even more flavorful delight. The other entree wasn't far behind in flavor. The braised pork, served in its own juices was also extremely tender and the rice, encircled by a few more sweet plantains for good measure, was fluffy and cooked to perfection.
The black beans were standard, yet the entree was incomplete without them. As we cleaned our plates, the attentive owner/waiter was extremely pleasant and cleared our table of the bare dishes as we relished in the toasty feeling inside our stomachs. Success! To top the evening off, the whole meal set us back approximately $25, which is an offer I will take up again and again!
Shachis Arepas-197 Havemeyer Street-Brooklyn NY

Review: Is It Possible to Eat at Grimaldi's In 40 Minutes (Wait Time Included)?

After fighting through downtown Brooklyn traffic, you may have had the unfortunate conquest of finding a line the length of your small intestine, outside of Grimaldi's Pizzeria. As you hang your head and gaze up at the massive Brooklyn Bridge (while salivating for one of the best pizzas in the city), you tell yourself that next time you'll be the first in line, at 11:30am, when they open! The rash pizza breakfast, however, is not necessary.

On a recent, bitterly Siberian weekday night I decided to venture out to the ends of Brooklyn, in hopes of finding no ridiculous line for my [detrimentally too often] pizza craving. Upon arrival, which was accompanied by a suspiciously easily attained, super close parking space, I breathed a sigh of relief to find myself waived in by a friendly server. "Please sit anywhere in the middle section," he suggested, as I found myself in awe of the 4...no, 5 empty tables, in the classically packed eatery.

Having never been able to eat inside this raved about pizza haven (due to the afore mentioned setbacks), I had a good feeling about the simplicity of the restaurant. Red, checkered table cloths lined ~30 or so tables with simple wooden chairs; photos of Frank Sinatra, Marilyn Monroe, and Marlon Brando plastered on every inch of wall space; and an exposed kitchen, spilling with eager, brunette, male servers, ready to make your pizza dreams come true. The simple menu featured: antipasto, calzone, red or white pizza (small/large), toppings, desserts, and beverages. Due to its popularity, Grimaldi's can demand almost any price they deem appropriate for their famous pies-making your outing (comparatively) a semi-high-end, doughy event.

After perusing the menu and various neighboring tables' choices (of red wine, beer, olives, and salad), I went straight for the goods: a large with ham and mushrooms. The monstrosity, which was brought out in approximately 5 minutes, deliciously loomed over my table (on a pizza stand) with imposingly sweet aromas. The famous, coal fired brick oven truly makes this pie-o-heaven. The bubbly, fresh, white mozzarella, puffed up on the edges, ready to burst with flavor. The sauce, composed of lightly and flawlessly seasoned fresh, aromatic tomatoes, is a perfectly sweet balance with the few pieces of fresh baked basil (for which you should set yourself back a buck and order an extra topping of). The toppings, simple and fresh...and last but most important...the crust. Although (per tradition), made with white flour (I prefer whole wheat), this savory dough is the opposite of bland. The seasoning has [I'm sure] been perfected to a science and is impeccably appropriate. At times you might find yourself with black fingers (that is to say that you eat your pizza with fingers and not the provided utensils, which you may or may not quickly abandon after the initial few bites) from the coal burning oven, which ads an incredible sweet-smokey flavor to the dish.

As I savored each bite, the description that remained prominent was freshness. The consumption of fresh aromas, simultaneously with taste makes for an amazingly delicious meal. The flavors of this outing quickly revived my memories of Italy's plethora of culinary flair. The many tiny local cafes, with hand made mozzarella, fresh herbs, and just baked doughs...oh yeah, and where's the leather bag I bought in the middle of that piazza...? All this is not to proclaim Grimaldi's as the one and only, yet to simply to acknowledge the combination of skill and value of fresh ingredients-which breed an extraordinary following and hard-to-resist pizza!

As I dished out the $25 (cash only) for the feast, I was amazed at the timing. While only arriving ~40 minutes earlier, I was waiving goodbye [and freezing once more] by 10:45pm! Unforeseen conclusion: if you are a local, craving a delicious, pizza, at approximately 10:00pm, on a weekday evening, in the middle of winter...YES! A ~40 minute freshness pie awaits you at Grimaldi's!
Grimaldi's-19 Old Fulton Street-Brooklyn, NY

Review: Sedap Taste Good Malaysian Cuisine...The Name Is Not Deceiving!

Ahh, Elmhurst Queens, you never fail as haven for a myriad of internationally infused cultural adventures. Just east of the city and north of the other international capital [Brooklyn], Elmhurst houses a multitude of immigrants who've turned each section of the area into a 'home' of their own. Among the Latin, Polish, and Chinese aggregation, Taste Good restaurant has found a home on 45th Avenue.

Be sure to keep your eyes peeled as you navigate to the tiny sit-down restaurant, as the next door food market almost engulfs the lilliputian sign and entrance. As we entered the curry haven, the aromas from the semi-exposed kitchen on the left overwhelmed our senses and the salivating began on impact. The 90% populous of Asian customers didn't bother looking up from their steaming bowls, chopsticks in hand. A warm feeling overcome, as we thought: this place may be authentic...

The overly accommodating, non English-speaking staff welcomed us with open arms-literally-waving over to the only open table in the house. Byob and no corkage fee...1-0, Elmhurst-Manhattan. Before we could undress (just our coats...it's not that kind of place!), a hot pot of tea was rushed to our table. Mild, with a hint of rose, served in tiny ethnic tea cups, it was a great aperitif to a culinary feast. An intermission from table conversation was definitely warranted to browse the 8 page menu, filled with an incredible variety of appetizers, soups, curries, noodle and rice dishes, meats, and sides. As we diligently studied our options, the staff was more than willing to help...indirectly. Although our two smiling waitresses and one buss girl were not able to understand us [or reply in English], one considerate patron was beckoned over as a translator.

We ordered roti canal (crispy Indian pancake with curry chicken sauce) to satiate ourselves while deciding. The 5" round was accompanied by a small bowl of flavorful, spicy curry with a few pieces of steamed chicken, happily floating about. The pancake, a perfect combination of a crisp outside with a moist and warm inside, was a great vessel for the savory, flavorful curry. As the [assumed] owner was making small talk with us, we finalized our choices and as a thank you [for finally ordering] she brought over a plate of achar salad (mixed pickled vegetables, tossed with ground peanut, sesame seed, and tamarind sauces). Our taste buds were blissfully overwhelmed with a combo of sweet, spicy, savory, and crunchy veggies, for which we profusely thanked our gracious host. Malaysian popiah (paper thin steamed pancake, stuffed with vegetables, rice, and egg) followed as our third appetizer of the evening. The rolled crepe-like log, stuffed, and topped with a pleasantly spicy sauce was a great accompaniment to the Saperavi we brought. The delicate dough melted in our mouths as the tangy spice and sweet rice kernels fused.

For the main course, Curry chicken noodles and Hainanese chicken rice. The curry, presented in a deep bowl, united boiled chicken, tender vegetables, and thick noodles in a moderately spicy coconut curry-which could have taken a bit more spice (perhaps they were being careful due to our alien status). Nevertheless, a tasty finish with the last drops of hot tea. The tender, mildly flavored chicken (notably boiled in a flavorful broth) was served atop vegetable rice, with a soy based dipping sauce.

With the slight exception of a spicier curry, the meal was perfectly seasoned and not overly salty. The overall experience-including staff, presentation, and freshness-were all eminently executed...hence an appropriately simple, unforgettable name. It tastes good!
Taste Good Malaysian Cuisine-8218 45th Avenue-Queens, NY

Review: Emeril's Miami Beach

In the heart of South Beach, Miami, Emeril Lagasse has made a home for his originally named annex, Emeril's...Miami Beach.

While visiting the sunny state, one of my eager and hungry accomplices decided that this was the place for our extravagant evening out. My initial reaction-another over-hyped chain, offering over-priced fare with an over-abundance of fluff and an understate of quality. Being in an affluently relaxed frame of mind, I gave into the collaborative efforts of my entourage and, while admiring my newly acquired tan, went to get dressed.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by an exceptionally friendly sommelier who [at the time] was doubling as host, and escorted us to our table. We were seated in a simple dining room, which had uncomfortably bare walls, and bland coloring throughout. To get the important things out of the way, a bottle of Pinot Gris for the table please! As I grazed the leather bound menu, my eyes' reflex is to initially inspect the dessert list-an abundant tabulation of banana cream, key lime, and various other pies. The Southern Style Chocolate Chip Pecan Pie with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, however, was the one which had me at first glance.

As we finalized our choices (being with 2 other women, you can imagine that this only took about... ~forever and a day), we happily placed our order with...no, not him, he's the bread guy...not him either, he pours the wine...no, this guy places the napkin on your lap...him! Our waiter!

After the first toast, and a few bites of an incredibly moist and not overly sweet corn bread, our appetizer made its way to our table...Emeril's Muffalada Salad. I've only experienced the marvel of the aforementioned in sandwich form, in New Orleans, and this low carb alternative was just as amazing. Fresh mixed greens, the perfect ratio of salami, and mozzarella, a light and flavorful red wine vinaigrette and an overabundance of olives and garlic (good thing I wasnt looking for romance that evening). This was just a tease of what awaited, as our entrees werent too far behind. Andouille Crusted Redfish with Roasted Pecan-Grilled Vegetable Relish, Brabant Potatoes and Creole Meunière Sauce, in which the marriage between the gentle, moist redfish and the crunchy, salty andouille (bonded with a savory, smooth sauce) proved to be a match made in heaven. Sweet Potatoes, which melted in our mouths. Miso Glazed Atlantic Salmon with Bamboo Rice, Pickled Ginger-Daikon Salad and Spicy Mustard that was cooked to perfection and dissolved with a gentle touch of your tongue, leaving a salty, tangy sensation. Pan Seared Tanglewood Chicken Breast that, again, was tender in entirety, with a kick of spice and accompanied by bitter, savory greens.

The portions were just right, not overbearing with a complete balance of accompanying vegetables and starches to last throughout the entirety of the protein, leaving us with just enough room for dessert. As we savored our last bites, not wanting the taste-gazms to end, we breathed a sigh of complete indulgence and satisfaction, with the last sip of wine.

After recovering and reentering reality, the focus was geared on dessert. Can our taste buds [once more] be so aroused by Emeril's flavorful creations in a sweet arrangement? The Southern Style Chocolate Chip Pecan Pie with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream did the trick. A warm tart, with the sweetness of brown sugar and crunch of pecans and chocolate chips, was supporting a scoop of rich, vanilla ice cream-a perfect combination of cool and warm. The New Orleans Style Bread Pudding with Brown Butter Bourbon Sauce and Praline Crumbles, however, was the sole under performer of the evening-offering more of a bland muffin appearance [and taste] than a moist bread pudding. The Bourbon sauce was its only savior [and moisturizer].

This small blunder, in comparison with our main feast, did not damper our experience one bit. Well done Emeril, well done! An almost perfect, distinctive meal left our senses overexcited, didn't push our budgets over the top, and sent our taste buds head over heels for Emeril's Miami Beach.
Emeril's Miami Beach-1601 Collins Ave-Miami, FL